Rolex’s supremacy, Cartier’s rise and the struggle of independent brands in luxury watchmaking

Responsible for around 34% of the market share, the brand’s classic models remain not only the best sellers, but also the most sought after by lovers of good watches. In the used market, it is also one of the most valuable brands, and although there are others trying to shadow it, they are still far from being able to even cause a pinch.

Data from the specialized press inform that the second most valuable brand in the segment is Cartier, with revenues of around 3.7 billion. Less than half.

And even the fact that the new features presented in 2026 – when the Oyster model celebrates 100 years – are not particularly surprising, takes away from the charm, importance and customers of the maison. All the models – especially the commemorative ones – will be in high demand, experts say, and Rolex continues to show all its power even at watch fairs. Present, as always, at Watches and Wonders 2026, the brand has, as always, one of the largest and best positioned pavilions and, as always, a list that is practically impossible to integrate to discover the new products.

Next door, Cartier occupies two sides of the same corridor. With an equally or more defensive attitude – in the sense of “not all journalists come to our sessions” – the brand tries to grow in exclusivity and in this way of making each customer feel very special, for having the opportunity to touch a piece of their own. Especially with the Asian market, where positioning works particularly well.

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